There’s always the temptation to throw caution to the wind when it comes to dressing for a special night, regardless of the cost. We want to shine, literally! And why not? The constant stream of celebrity red carpet moments invade our feeds and our minds. It’s only natural to want to pull out all the stops for our own big nights. Well, I’m here to tell you to cool your high heels and consider this; (women) celebrities don’t pay a dime for those amazing red carpet looks (not sure how it works for the men). The only thing they pay for is their stylist. At least someone made some money.
I’ve been in the business long enough to have witnessed the progression of celebrities buying their own clothes at retail for events, to stylists working with designer houses to make custom gowns for their clients, to the celebrities being paid to be ambassadors to the brand with the agreement that they wear said brand to important events.
The most common scenario is the stylist contacts the design house with a request from the celebrity for a dress for a high profile event. This little bomb gets dropped at any time but awards season is particularly busy. I say bomb because it’s completely disruptive. Regardless of how busy the design team is (and now with so many collections per year there is no down time) a presentation must be prepared with sketches and swatches all tied up with a bow, literally. In the absence of a brand ambassador agreement, the stylist most likely has approached other designers as well. Once a decision has been made the dress is commissioned. Then the real work starts.
A dress form is adapted to the celebrity’s measurements and the gown is custom draped for them, a pattern is made and the sample commences. Sometimes there is a muslin fitting, but often they are too busy or far away so the actual fabric is cut. If it has embroidery or beading, the fabric panels are sent to India. Time is usually tight so everything is shipped express, which is very expensive. The best drapers and sewers must stop whatever they were working on for the actual collection to get the dress done. Often the draper is flown to the celeb for a fitting, at the company's expense of course. The cost of labor, materials and time runs into the tens of thousands with the design house footing the bill. This happens multiple times a year and it is now considered part of the cost of doing business. All for a mention in the press or the social media stir that happens in wake of the event; or not.
Often the stylist has commissioned two other design houses for the same celebrity and event so they can make up their mind the morning of. Usually, the designer doesn’t know if their dress was worn until it happens. For me this is particularly egregious, having witnessed how much work and expense has gone into the dress. It has become a pet peeve for me as I’ve witnessed this practice evolve from the celebrity borrowing a sample for an event (and sometimes even returning it) to what we have today. The worst part is the very same sewers, drapers and designers who take on the work are often denied raises because of budget constraints. Their ask is a small fraction of what is lavished on the most entitled.
It’s true that a design house can enjoy a healthy boost by a viral celebrity moment showcasing their work. Though with so many such moments the impact can be fleeting. It does show that you’re in the game, so most houses play along even if the cost is prohibitive. Money rules and the big guys have the advantage, leaving emerging talent out of the tent.
So what does all this have to do with you getting dressed for a party? In three words; keep it real! Here, some suggestions on how to shine on your big night without going broke.
Most of the parties we mortals attend are not the Met Gala. Why not adopt a low key cool feel a la Carolyne Bessette Kennedy. She kept it simple with a palette of black and white. Her gorgeous hair and red lips gave it the wow factor. Break it down; her evening looks were the epitome of simplicity but she always looked stunning, because she was, but also the air of nonchalance added to her mystique.
Our paths crossed briefly when we both worked at Calvin Klein. I can’t say I knew her more than to say hi as we passed in the office, but she stood out as a beauty, the personification of the Calvin aesthetic. She had a striking resemblance to Elaine Irwin, a model that was huge in the Calvin orbit at the time. I think all alums of Calvin Klein come away from it with a deep seated love of simplicity. I know I have.
Keep It Simple
Inspired by CBK, this outfit captures her understated elegance. A long black dress is a key piece to have in your arsenal. Don’t worry about wearing it to multiple functions, it can be accessorized in different ways to change up the look. The attitude of only wearing something once for fear of being photographed is absurd and harmful to the environment. Jackie O. was often photographed wearing the same outfit. Good clothes should be worn and loved for years to come. The dress is from Simkhai. Simple black sandals are another evening staple. These are from Gianvito Rossi. With open toes the perfect red nail polish is a must. Buy one black evening bag and have it for years. I love this one from DeMellier. Nothing is more elegant than opera gloves. Invest in one good pair and have them for life. These are from Cornelia James, glove maker to the English royals. They’re made of pure silk knit and are surprisingly well priced. Tie it all up with the perfect red lipstick.
The dress should be body skimming, not tight. Here, two more excellent dress options from Totême and Co.
I came across this Mango campaign and thought, hey that looks pretty damn good. But I had to be sure it measured up, so off to Mango I went. See pants, top and skirt here.
Bear in mind these are not styled looks; I wanted to show what they looked like in the harsh reality of the dressing room. I have to say for the money you get a lot of look. The pants and long skirt are unconstructed and made in a stretchy fabric. You just pull them on, but once on they feel secure. The short skirt is more constructed with a zipper closure. You could spend a small fortune on sequined separates (see Dolce and Gabbana skirt below). However, I’m all for the idea of spending big on trusty wardrobe staples you’ll live in and get the look for less when it comes to glitz.
You can have your shining moment and invest your clothing dollars wisely. If you don’t already own one, invest in a classic black blazer of high quality that you’ll enjoy for years. The black silk camisole is another staple to own. Add to these classics a fun little sequined mini and you’ve got yourself a party look. And ladies, if you still have the legs for it, proudly wear your mini’s, the hose has got you covered and the blazer over it balances out the brevity of the skirt. With a super short skirt I prefer lower heeled sling backs like these.
This Dolce and Gabbana skirt is $3,245! Grant it, it’s fully constructed and most likely hand embroidered onto the fabric rather than machine embroidered sequined fabric as the Mango pieces are. But as you can see the look is there.
Let The Hair Do The Talking
Why not make a statement with your hair? Equipped with a photo go to your trusted hair stylist for a full-out hairdo. (Zendaya is the queen hair chameleon) Best to discuss it before the big night so they can figure out timing. Dance the night away with wild curls or go for full-out, old Hollywood glamour. Either way you’re the star.
For wild curls I would wear a slinky dress with a 70’s vibe like this from Tove or this Studio 54 friendly number from Sei. Both are on sale now.
Super controlled hair calls for a dress that exudes old Hollywood glamour. From left Victoria Beckham, Erdem and Victoria Beckham. All are on sale and all are timeless.
My suggestions are as much for inspiration as they are recommendations. Always shop your own closet first and if you must buy, try to buy for the long term and get multiple wears out of everything you purchase. I always base my recommendations with that in mind. Even the Mango sequins could have an important place in your wardrobe as part of an evening capsule collection to style in different ways for different occasions.
As always, thanks for reading. As they say we’re all stars in our own movie, better dress the part!
xxx Jolain
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This is some very good advice. I love just taking one piece of clothing as you have shown in the dressing room and mixing it with something already in the closet!
Love your CK stories and how you’ve updated CK simplicity for today!