Runway to Reality
Taking Inspiration From The Shows To Apply To Your Own Wardrobe and A Note On Pier Paolo Piccioli
With the Spring ‘25 shows three quarters through, I thought this would be a good time to do a round-up of what’s speaking to me. Much of what we see on the runways will never see the retail light of day. But among the theatrics, experimentation and extreme styling there are a lot of great clothes that will make their way into our wardrobes or inspire what we want to buy. The extremes we often see on the runway have a purpose. They introduce new concepts and slowly push the needle to where fashion is heading. With that in mind, I look at the collections and think in practical terms of how to apply what inspires me to inform my clients' wardrobes as well as my own. Everyone has different needs. We have to start with a big picture and also have an understanding of what’s out there.
At this point I don’t see one clear direction to go in, however we have a full six months to let the seeds of inspiration germinate. Right now here’s what I’m keeping my eye on.
Suede Jacket or Coat
The suede jacket has already become a much coveted item for this fall. I predict this will continue into spring. Most likely more companies will make versions of the Prada and Miu Miu suede jackets we’ve already seen come spring (available here if you have the $$$). For fall Mango offered a great version at a good price which quickly sold out as did a version by Staud. Kobi Halperin did a longer version with the right kind of collar but there are limited sizes. This Woolrich jacket gets the shape and collar right, I just wish it were a touch longer. The company that gets this right for spring will have a winner. I’ll be on the lookout and will keep you informed. It’s a very versatile piece and a great wardrobe builder. Using the Prada jacket as inspiration look for a boxy fit with a collar without a lapel. I love the green but brown is the more versatile choice. For my vintage shoppers keep your eye out for this, you never know when lightning will strike!
Update: I just found this Jacket from Massimo Dutti!
The shape of this sleek shoulder bag will also continue into spring. Clean lines define this classic Prada shape, here in the large size. I wore these exact sandals in the late 90’s and early aughts. I had them in two colors and was lost when I had to finally retire them. I’m glad to see they’re reissuing them, though now at quadruple the price.
The rich brown color and easy fit of this Tod’s leather coat is the perfect winter to spring, fall to winter coat. Brown is quite versatile. It works well with just about every color. I love the pop of the green bag and the bucket shape is here to stay. This picture will be on my mood board!
I first wrote about Khaite in February of 2017. Since then designer Catherine Holstein has been steadfast in her commitment to creating luxury clothes women covet. This is what American fashion could use more of. For Spring ‘25 I’m inspired by the monochromatic separates in silk organza, particularly in muted red. Matching tops and bottoms have been around for several seasons. This summer matching boxer shorts and shirts in cotton were everywhere. I’m all for bringing the ease of matching separates to evening. The other concept at Khaite that interests me is the application of a solid fabric on a sheer base as seen on the right.
In my last post, “A Hard Look at Oversized Proportions”, I declared that oversized proportions will be with us for a while longer. Fashion is full of contradictions and Milan may prove me wrong as they bring tailoring closer to the body, though still with plenty of ease. Both will coexist no doubt, but it’s nice to see proper tailoring again as the Italians are known for.
Soft draping is speaking to me, particularly draping that is done with a light hand. Simple shapes softened by touches of draping is something I’m looking for in silk blouses and dresses with the caveat that it must be done in a way that stays naturally in its place without looking tortured. It takes a skilled hand to get this right.
Forever I’ve been waiting for tunics with matching pants to come to the fore. I personally love this look, it’s a flattering line and looks new. While I wait, the next best thing could be elongated shirts falling below the jacket or sweater. The extra layer adds interest, Though for me I would keep it tonal to avoid breaking things up too much.
A last word on a different but related subject. It is my profound hope that Pier Paolo Piccioli will be named creative director of Balenciaga (even though the spot is currently not open, there is talk). As much as I appreciate Demna’s influence on the trajectory of fashion, I was always disturbed by some of his more proletariat affectations for the house of Balenciaga. As a couturier, Balenciaga was a master of his craft. Creating beauty out of cloth earned him the respect of his peers. Christian Dior called him, “the master of us all”. Coco Chanel said, “He is the only couturier in the truest sense of the word, the others are simply fashion designers”. Balenciaga was a refined gentleman, reclusive and pious. I believe Piccioli is a better fit for the true origins of the house that Balenciaga built. He has proven himself at Valentino to understand modern luxury better than any other current designer. I believe the master himself would approve of Piccioli at the helm, though I doubt that enters into the selection process. One can hope!
If anyone has any thoughts or insights on this please share!
xxx Jolain
Agree on Balenciaga.
On the subject of suede and a little hint on those who love a good vintage find...back in the 2000s, Gap made high quality leather goods. Less than two weeks ago I was in London and scored a vintage Gap biker jacket in cream suede. It is made of some of the most soft, lightweight, and comfortable suede I've ever felt. I am already on the hunt for a Gap suede in dark brown.