Style Versus Fashion

Guest Edited by Eric Gaskins

As a gay man who grew up in a house filled with women, I have a unique perspective. I’ve always had an appreciation and respect for women. My mother’s taste and style informed my eye from a very early age. She was always beautifully dressed and by extension, we were too. She dressed us for important holidays: Easter, Christmas and our birthdays, as well as for school. My parents were teachers and didn’t have money per se but they made sure we always looked our best. Her mission was to instill in us the desire to put our best foot forward and take pride in our appearance. As African Americans, she wanted us to look and act in a way that would counter perceived notions of what the ‘outside world’ assumed about Black people. My idea of how one presents oneself to the world is based on the lessons we were taught. 

The early years

Never having lost my fascination with clothes, I chose fashion design to put my ideas to practical use. I apprenticed at Givenchy and learned first hand the importance of clothes that elevate and enhance a woman’s beauty. In a career that has spanned over 30+ years, my mother and Givenchy informed my eye from the very beginning until today.

This isn’t to say I advocate for austere, minimal, fashion. Over the top, extraneous design, doesn’t speak to me. Women who dress in that way don’t embody style in my eyes. I’ve always prioritized the woman first and the clothes second. What’s the point of walking into a room with your clothes screaming: over here? My job has always been to enhance a woman’s beauty and empower her through fashion. Not to overwhelm her with more and more. That kind of design speaks the loudest; a sort of whisper as opposed to a shriek. This way of seeing has everything to do with the question I’ve grappled with all along: what is fashion vs. style?

Gowns by Eric Gaskins

A woman with style, as opposed to one who doggedly chases the latest fashion is, for me, fascinating, alluring, unforgettable. I love women and want to see them, not only their clothes.

Style for many women is innate. Yet, style is something that can also be learned. That maxim: ‘Elegance is refusal’ is so true. To reduce and reduce to find that essence which is you, takes guts. A critical eye is essential. A willingness to stand in front of a mirror and be brutally honest: Do these clothes fit? Do they fit me? Do they enhance or distort? Do they make me feel like I can face the world with confidence?

In Eric Gaskins at the Oscars and Golden Globes

I’ve found that all of this can be boiled down to one absolute rule: FIT. Fit is the absolute foundation; the most important thing. No matter your body type, the clothes must fit. There’s no skirting (forgive the pun) this issue. Forget sizes, think FIT. Forget about dressing for others. Dress for yourself and make certain the clothes accentuate the positives and not the negatives. And most important of all, make sure your clothes fit the occasion. Unless you’re working the pole at the BadaBing, showing the world your breasts and behind outside of your home should be a No Go!

Eric Gaskins

One of the most important ingredients of all are manners. That detail goes a long way in how one is seen. That is the invisible undergarment that informs everything. 

Style doesn’t have to be at odds with fashion. It’s more a mindset that fashion is a tool, a means to an end. Style is about leading, and not being led. Fashion is like an enormous buffet, and style is choosing what nourishes you, not just piling everything on your plate.

A note from Jolain:

Eric and I met in the mid 90’s when the studios for our collections were in the same building in the heart of the Garment Center. We immediately became fast friends, sharing a love of all things style related and depending on each other when we needed a trusted opinion on something we were working on. Over the years our relationship has grown into one of the most significant in my life. I’m proud to call him my bestie.

For 25 years he designed a true luxury collection under his label Eric Gaskins. He also gained notoriety for his hold no punches fashion blog, The Emperor's Old Clothes, under the nom de plume ‘Fluff Chance’. The New York Times eventually outed him with a front page story in the Style Section. His wit, humor and most of all encyclopedic knowledge of all things fashion is only rivaled by the late Andre Leon Tally who was an early supporter of Eric. 

My hope is to convince Eric to guest edit on a semi-regular basis. Sometimes there’s nothing better than the opinion of that trusted gay friend with impeccable taste who will always tell you the truth. My working title for this is Ask a Gay (is that too crass?).  

Let me know your thoughts. It would be part fun but always full of solid style advice.

Until next time, thanks for reading!

xx Jolain