Knitwear, particularly cashmere, is my favorite thing about fall dressing. I know everyone does not share my enthusiasm for knitwear. There are women who find sweaters too hot. That’s not me, I tend to run cold. When the weather turns cold, I can’t wait to bring out my collection of cashmere sweaters. Many I designed for various designers over the years. Most are heavyweight and made in small mills in Italy using cashmere processed there. The quality is incomparable. Some of my sweaters are over twenty years old and still look perfect. That's quality. I never dry clean or hang cashmere sweaters unless they’re super lightweight. It’s best to fold them with breathing room and hand wash in cold water with a mild soap like Woolite, roll in a towel to remove the excess water and dry flat.
For this sweater edit I wanted to cover shapes and styles that will build your wardrobe and be enjoyed for many falls to come. Quality knits, particularly cashmere, have hit astronomical prices lately. If you can afford it, I would encourage you to spend the four figure sum on a great cashmere sweater, providing you love it and the style has staying power. For the rest of us, I’ve rounded up great choices in that mid range that use natural fibers (often cashmere) and are of good quality. Many top designers now use a 70 wool 30 cashmere blend to get the look and some of the softness of all cashmere while keeping the price within reason.Â
When looking for sweaters, first I consider the style and the proportions. If that passes I look at the content. I’m a stickler for natural fibers. I won’t buy a sweater with nylon or acrylic unless it’s a small percentage. For the most part I like 100% cashmere, wool or cotton. It makes a huge difference in how well the sweater will look and hold up over time.Â
The vast price range for cashmere sweaters is confusing. At Uniqlo a fine gauge, basic cashmere sweater can be had for a hundred dollars (gauge refers to stitches per inch, 12 and up is very light and 3 gauge would be quite heavy). How is that possible? Not to get too technical but the raw materials and the parts of the goat where the wool is harvested are not the best. The processing of the raw materials to yarn can also be done much cheaper resulting in shorter fibers that tend to pill and have a rougher hand. All that said, in my opinion I would prefer that to a synthetic blend.Â
Enough said, let’s get on with the edit! Following are seven boards representing seven different categories of sweaters. Depending on your needs and preferences, all have a place in a well rounded, functional fall wardrobe.
I recommend at least one luxurious, oversized sweater in your fall wardrobe. The center image of Linda Evangelista in a Donna Karan cashmere sweater is burned in my brain since it appeared in Vogue in the nineties. It still looks modern and exemplifies all I love about fall dressing. The sweater at the top left is nipped at the waist to give a little definition to an oversized shape. Find the chunky cashmere turtle here, v neck here and crew neck here.
This is a non-negotiable must have for your fall wardrobe. To drive that point home I’ve gathered photos of style icons over decades looking chic and modern in their black turtlenecks. If you hate turtlenecks, as some of my clients do, I suggest trying one in fine gauge cashmere. I would hate for you to miss out on this style staple that goes with virtually everything and always makes an impact. You can pile on the jewelry as seen here on Faye Dunaway and Loulou de la Falaise, or wear it unadorned. Pair it with everything from jeans to full out evening skirts or pants. I have at least four in different weights for different purposes but would recommend a fine gauge cashmere or 100% merino wool with a close but not too tight fit. Here are a few suggestions to get you started: all cashmere, all cashmere on sale, a ribbed short sleeve would be good for layering, also on sale and from Co on sale.
An easy fit v neck is another must have that will afford you many outfit options. Tucked into a pencil skirt with heels and pile on the jewelry (a la Loulou again) for a dressed up look, or wear loose with pants and loafers for a casual look to name only a few. This is a good place to add a fun color like the red v neck here. I also love soft ivory or beige.
Admittedly this is not a must have but it is nice to have. Sometimes a cropped sweater that hits just at the waistband of a skirt or high waisted trousers creates the perfect silhouette as seen in this old runway shot from Bottega Veneta. I love this chunky black one or a simple crew in a rich brown.
This is a classic that deserves a place in everyone’s wardrobe. Many a weekend or trip to the country you’ll be glad to have it. Not to say it wouldn’t look great paired with gray flannel trousers for the office. This slightly heavier, beige and black colorway brings the breton stripe into fall and makes it easy to pair with your black pants. Or lighter in all cashmere here.
I have been eyeing this Khaite cashmere cardigan for years (they keep running it because it’s so popular) but at $1980 won’t be pulling the trigger soon, even if it is a forever sweater. Many companies have made cheap copies of it. However, the gray and black shown here are in 100% merino wool and get the weight and proportions just right. It’s a great alternative.
This is not essential unless you’re a sweater person like me. The simple shapes and interesting textures will add interest to otherwise simple outfits. I love the shape of the mock turtleneck and the deep burgundy color. The easy shape that’s big but not too big, and the neutral tone of this beige and camel sweater make it a natural outfit enabler.
Remember a high quality, well proportioned sweater can be a friend for life!
Thanks for reading, until next time,
xxx Jolain