When Designers Mine the Classics

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This weekend I read Kevin Robles excellent newsletter Faubourg Saint-Honoré. He featured the Sebago boat shoe in response to the popularity of the Miu Miu version of the preppy classic. This got me thinking of the familiar, often mundane basics designers have been mining.

Undoubtedly, the Miu Miu boat shoe was one of the runaway successes of the Spring ‘24 collections. It sold out everywhere with a March ‘25 waitlist at Bergdorf Goodman. Talk about dusting off an old, all but forgotten, classic and making it a thing! Kudos to team Miuccia. Here I give credit where credit is due. The shoe played seamlessly into the vibe of the runway show. Looking back at the show I was shocked to see the shoe appeared only nine times out of 63 looks. I was sure it appeared with practically every look. She did streamline it a bit and distressed it to mimic years of salty use. Nevertheless at $950, if you could even find them, the real deal looks just as good to me. I love the authenticity of the originals. It brings back memories of my Sperry Topsider wearing days in my twenties when I dated a competitive sailor. He swore by the brand and waxed poetic on how they only got better with age and multiple soakings. 

If you’re pining for the Miu Mius but don’t want to wait until March, I suggest the below. They are damn close minus the Miu Miu stamped on the tongue and a fraction of the price.  I like them as a fall transitional shoe, sneaker alternative and bonus they’re great in the rain.

One of my clients recently was contemplating the purchase of an expensive raffia bag from a designer. I responded by sending her links to more reasonably priced raffia bags of which there are plenty. Coming from the design end I know that a true raffia bag (not paper raffia), made by skilled artisans that have been hand making them for generations is not a costly proposition. Once a logo is splashed on the face of it, or simply a discrete label tucked inside, it suddenly costs ten times more. 

I’m from an older generation that was steeped in the idea that logos are tacky. There are no logos plastered on the Birkin Bag for example, the bag speaks for itself. Though I would argue that even the sacred cow of all status goods, The Birkin, has reached a saturation point when every Real Housewife of wherever collects them like candy, in turn becoming a modern day symbol of Louis Quatorze style excess of the uber rich.

But I digress, back to the humble raffia bag. At what point does it not make sense to spend so much for the designer version? I would answer when the added value of design innovation is at a minimum and the materials are of equal quality. Case in point: The Row raffia bag below (I’ll probably take heat for this!). It is the classic traditional market bag shape with the addition of a stripe in a  contrasting weave across the center. Imho not enough. I would be just as happy to get the look with the option below. 

The Henley first gained popularity in 19th century England when it was worn by rowers at the Royal Henley Regatta in Henley on Thames. Many credit Ralph Lauren for it’s revival in the 70’s, though I would say it was always around in a less glamorous, men’s undergarment sort of way. Women have adopted it for decades now as an alternative to a straight tee. Nili Lotan’s version has a slim fit made of 100% cotton. The Everlane choice also has a slim fit with 4% lycra added for recovery and 96% Pima cotton. They are made in Peru at an ethically sourced factory. Both are nice, you decide. 

Leave it to Thom Browne to revive the all but forgotten Keds Champion. These felt old even when I was young. I guess that makes them primed for a comeback. With the addition of ridges around the sole and his signature red, white and blue grosgrain at the back, his magic touch inflates the cost to $420. Mmm OK. The pair at the bottom right look like a Keds x Thom Browne Collaboration, albeit unauthorized as the price would indicate. He’s not the only one who can cleverly add stripes. 

There are always options! Thanks for reading and if you like what you see here please spread the word!

xxx Jolain