A Hard Look At Oversized Proportions
How big is too big and striking the right balance
Just a few weeks into the Spring ‘25 shows of fashion month and it’s apparent that the oversized shapes we’ve become accustomed to the last few years are here to stay a while longer. This has posed problems for me professionally, most of my clients have rejected the look as not flattering and too exaggerated for the office. And they’re not wrong. It’s been especially hard to find jackets at retail. Either they're too oversized, too basic or too mature. Most of the creative energy goes to the oversized jacket contingent.
For me personally, it’s also been a challenge. My petite frame and stature are overwhelmed by exaggerated shoulders and big proportions. It makes me look shorter and wider, not the look I’m going for. I can’t tell you how many things I’ve ordered and sent back because the reality just didn’t work. The latest, a pair of Cos pants I just had to have and recommended to you. The proportions of the wide legs plus the wrap front didn’t work on me. On a taller person they would be great. Though I did know I would most likely send them back, I had to try. One of the hazards of shopping online is believing we will look even remotely like the very tall, very thin model on which we base our decision. It still gets me all the time and I should know better.
I credit Demna Gvasalia for fashion's current obsession with big proportions. He certainly wasn’t the only one, though surely the most visible designer to embrace big, particularly when he became creative director at Balenciaga in 2016. His exaggerated proportions on the runway had an immediate trickle down effect.
Pier Paolo Piccioli at Valentino made big luxe with his groundbreaking Spring 2018 couture show. In it he blew up the size of multiple layers in luxurious fabrics, mixing odd colors as only he can. The overall effect was a new kind of luxury, which informed all his collections to come.
Fashion’s commitment to an oversized silhouette has changed our collective eye towards XXL proportions. There are aspects of it that I find very modern, comfort being one of them, and a more relaxed vibe in general. An all-fitted look seems a bit dated and uptight now. There must be an element of ease to look modern. The key is finding the balance that works for you. The push and pull of volume versus showing the body beneath the clothes is the balance I want to break down for us with a few tricks I’ve picked up along the way.
Big Shirt
The outfit on the left, though very on-trend, seems to overwhelm the wearer. There is too much similarity between the crisp cotton of the oversized shirt and the wide cotton pants that fully obscure the shoe. The outfit on the right has balanced the size of the shirt with a slimmer pant. The bare sandal and a glimpse of the ankles is an added relief to the volume at top.
Outerwear
A big coat or jacket is a great way to add volume to your look with the added advantage of working over big sweaters or even jackets in winter. The look at left looks easy and natural. The slim silhouette and fluidity of the dress gets weight from the structure of the jacket in a heavy wool houndstooth. At right, a big trench over monochromatic pieces that are easy without being oversized strikes the perfect balance. Here it’s important to show some ankle to avoid weighing the look down. The neat head with a headband perfectly pulls it all together.
This woman has mastered the art of balance. Despite her slight frame she easily carries off the large proportions of the coat. The natural shoulder and sleek black pieces underneath make it look effortless. Again note the flash of ankle and brilliant shoe choice. A sweater tied around the shoulder introduces a new color and texture. Perfection!
Oversized Blazer
I have dipped my toe into the oversized blazer pool and found it a challenge. I find it works best as an outerwear piece over a layered look. The photo on the right is Linda Wright, a chic American woman who owns a cashmere store in Paris (follow her on IG @lindavwright). The fluidity of her cropped pants lighten the bottom half. Like Linda, I prefer to wear mine open with a big cashmere scarf draped at the neck. It softens the masculine feel of an oversized blazer. The jacket on the left has an oversized appearance but is actually quite tailored. The longer length and sleeve trick the eye. This is a masterfully styled look. The top half has little relationship to the bottom half but the sophisticated color combination and interest of the pieces somehow work together. The addition of white at the feet helped to tie in the lace hem.
Don’t be tempted to belt your oversized blazer unless you have an 18 inch waist. Better to wear it open with fluid, more body conscious clothing underneath. Limit the colors to monochromatic or tonal, as the previous photo, to prevent it from looking too busy.
The easiest way to add volume to your wardrobe is the addition of an oversized sweater or a throw. I wear my big sweaters as outerwear in the fall and a throw is the accessory that keeps on giving!
I know this was a lot to unpack. Let me know if this was helpful and how you feel about going big.
xxx Jolain
It’s very hard for us short/petite people! I buy oversize blazers in petite whenever j crew has in stock. I also buy their jeans in a classic fit if they are 26-28 in length. Recently purchased mid rise dark wash , light weight jeans from JCrew. I’m very happy with them. I’m 4”11.
I loved this! I'm a huge fan of oversized clothing because it suits me best, but I completely agree with you—if we’re not mindful of proportions, we can easily get lost in those oversized pieces. And we all know how risky it is to dress for trends instead of dressing for ourselves!