Why I’m Not Obsessed With The Row
Despite Loving The Row Aesthetic
The it-brand status of The Row I find curious. I say this as someone who identifies closely with the aesthetic they promote, that of luxurious, non branded staples, mainly in black and neutrals. The quality fabrics are primarily in natural fibers, silks, wools and cashmeres which is important to me. Despite this, I find the collection often too basic to warrant the cost. For that kind of money I want more innovation and to stand out just a little. Am I just a disgruntled would-be customer because I can’t afford it? Probably. Though I do watch them closely and lately I haven’t seen anything I’m pining for. There is beauty in what they do, no doubt, but even if I had the means there are other places I would drop my cash.
As a designer, I know one of the hardest things to do is design something simple that is still unique. Maybe it’s the seaming or the construction or the look as a whole adds newness in proportion, style, materials. Phoebe Philo consistently did this during her tenure at Celine and continues to quietly innovate, pushing the minimalist maxim forward at her own brand in her own way. Her site is well worth a look now that the hype of the initial drop has died down.
Since 2006 The Row has slowly and steadily grown a cult following. Entree requires a black AmEx Card and a love of blending in, in luxury. The number of devotees seems to be increasing exponentially which makes me wonder if everyone is quietly rich except me. The perpetually sold out Margaux bag makes me think yes.
Is this exclusive club ready to embrace many more members given the recent funding round which now values the company at *$1 billion? Sales for The Row will have to explode to meet investor’s expectations. How will that sit with the exclusivity of the brand that currently has five stores and 250-300 million in sales? Not to mention the autonomy the Olson twins seem to relish in how they manage their brand. Is it naive to think bigger is not always better?
There is no value in a gripe fest. I’m merely expressing my contrary opinion which I think fashion writing could use more of. We should question why luxury items cost so much and what defines exclusivity. While working at Carolina Herrera, when I had to make a quick calculation for the price of something I would multiply the the first cost from the factory by ten to get an idea of the retail price. The trappings of a luxury brand are not cheap, the retailer’s markup is also huge and has only gotten worse. But that’s another story.
I don’t think I’m alone in wanting quality, well designed clothes that don't require a second mortgage. Here’s my answer to looking good and staying financially solvent. Inspired by the minimalist ethos of The Row. I love luxury too much to abandon it altogether. Fortunately there are ways to have my cashmere and wear it too!
Fall 2024 Look 8
Here I’ve replicated the look with other brands that offer quality at a more affordable price. Obviously the fabrics are not as expensive as those used by The Row, though they are of good quality using natural fibers.
The Row Sand Coat 4550. Max Mara Coat 1560.
The Row Maigret Cotton Shirt 1190. Riess Jenny Cotton Shirt 160.
The Row Vesco Pant 1320. Weekend Max Mara Cigarette Trousers 325.
The Row Eva TurtleneckCashmere 1290. Cos Merino Wool Turtleneck 89.
The Row Signum Heeled Sandal 1300. Cos Sphere Heeled Sandal 234. On sale!
The Row Total 9650. Duplicate Total 2368.
Difference $7,282.
With the money you saved you could buy a Margaux Bag, if you could find one! Or you could buy this handsome bag from DeMellier and spend the weekend in Paris.
Soft Margaux Bag 5600. DeMellier New York Bag 670.
Difference $4930.
Fall 2024 Look 5
This is an excellent dress to own. It’s timeless, flattering and versatile. If nothing else I’m stealing the styling trick of red hose with matching red shoes (this would also be great in burgundy), it makes the look. I found what looks like the same dress from The Row on The Real Real. For the Victoria Beckham dress I would hem the sleeves to bracelet length to lighten it up.
The Row Angeline Belted Wool Dress 2750. Victoria Beckham 978.
The Row Liisa D’Orsay Pump 1140. Stuart Weitzman 548.
Anderson Belt 205.
Red Fogal Tights 43.
The Row Total 3890. Duplicate Total 1731.
Difference $2159.
The Row Cashmere Crewneck 2850. Cos Cashmere Turtleneck 375.
Difference $2475.
Both sweaters are 100% cashmere, similar in thickness, size and feel. The Row was made in Italy. I’ve made cashmere sweaters in both Italy and China. The quality in Italy is superior, though the costs of manufacturing in Italy has become prohibitive for all but the most high end companies. China has many factories catering to high end designers producing quality products. With cashmere you do get what you pay for. I stand by this Cos sweater, this is the third time I’ve recommended it. It's thick, soft and looks great on though I had to size it down to XS from my usual S. The surface on this undyed color has a brushed effect, which I anticipate will pill to some extent, but for the price it’s a tremendous value. I simply pull pills off as they happen and don’t recommend the pill shavers. I think they take too much of the fibers away.
The Row Wool Double-Face Skirt 1350. Cos Wool Double-Face Skirt 170.
Difference $1180.
Both skirts are made in double-face wool blend fabrics which means the fabric is split and one side of the seam is inserted into the split other side, with the seam allowance folded over to create a clean seam inside and out. It’s a beautiful construction once reserved for only the most expensive brands. Double-face fabrics are double layers, giving it body that holds shape well. The Row skirt is made of 70% wool 25% Nylon and 5% cashmere and is made in Italy. I haven’t seen The Row skirt but safe to assume it’s divine. The Cos skirt is 60% wool and 40% Tencel. The fabric of the Cos skirt feels and looks great and it fits beautifully, with a reasonable, not too high slit. Again, for the price and quality the Cos skirt is an incredible value and fits into my mandate of buying better and buying less.
The Row delivers excellent quality and is a true luxury brand. However, if like me you have expensive tastes but not the bank account to match, I hope you found this helpful. It is possible to get the look for less while maintaining high standards and yes, enjoying a bit of luxury!
* Correction: An earlier version of this post incorrectly stated The Row raised $1 billion in a recent funding round. They are now valued at $1 billion after the funding round.
And finally…
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xxx Jolain
Someone had to say it!
Price doesn’t always reflect quality—it often pays for marketing and creates an air of exclusivity. The Row operates on this same principle, much like Hermès, focusing more on the status it gives the buyer rather than the item itself. Of course the clothes have still great quality, but the price is too inflated. I can confidently say that many handmade Italian garments, crafted by skilled artisans, would still cost less than something from The Row. But, if I had the money for one of their coats, would I still buy it? Absolutely, yes.
As always, wonderful work, Jolain.
As always the way you explain design in simple terms for us is digestible and we leave feeling like we learned a lot! Thank you for sharing the way pricing is structured at such a studio like CH.
I agree with your post on The Row, it seems to be teetering at the stage where design houses start to get a little bloated and erupt into chaos (as we are seeing happen at LVMH and Chanel). The new bling is black and blue neutrals.