57 Comments

Someone had to say it!

Price doesn’t always reflect quality—it often pays for marketing and creates an air of exclusivity. The Row operates on this same principle, much like Hermès, focusing more on the status it gives the buyer rather than the item itself. Of course the clothes have still great quality, but the price is too inflated. I can confidently say that many handmade Italian garments, crafted by skilled artisans, would still cost less than something from The Row. But, if I had the money for one of their coats, would I still buy it? Absolutely, yes.

As always, wonderful work, Jolain.

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Thanks Giulia, Yes, luxury brands have become adept at equating cost with exclusivity and status while producing more and more of the product. The marketing geniuses do their jobs very well. The big money that now dominates the luxury market is only further corrupting the system and it's the consumers that pays in crazy high prices. Please do a story on handmade Italian garments!!! That would be refreshing!

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So true!

I have something in store about that 🤍🤍🤍 I can’t wait to share it with you and hear your thoughts!

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Looking forward to it! The craft of making beautiful clothes is really what excites me!

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That's an interesting food for thought, "crazy prices" but when the customer pays it, doesn't this mean that the customer is the "crazy" enabler of these brands to exist in the first place and by paying "crazy prices" and "knowledge about the industry" and the privileged customer still buys, it's actually the very same customer who could be called "crazy" too. Yes, that would be fascinating to learn more about unknown Italian artisans who produce excellent fashion items at prices which reflect an environment in which the prices, producer and consumer ie. customer of said brands does feel valued of instead being called crazy. Thank you 🤔🤓😍📚🔖💯

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Even when someone has the money, it wouldn't mean one should spend it on a brand when one knows about there prices are over-inflated to give an artificial air of prestige, otherwise what's the sense in knowing how to appreciate Italian artisans and their products and how these masterpieces are priced towards the customer? Having the means to buy the Row is a wonderful thing and privilege, but IYKYK and still buy is actually less so, it gives the signal that their inflation doesn't matter only because one can and wants to belong at a high "entrance price" into the club which only exists in our overly branded imaginations which try to flee that terrible FOMO feeling. Thank you 💸🤓😍😋💯

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As always the way you explain design in simple terms for us is digestible and we leave feeling like we learned a lot! Thank you for sharing the way pricing is structured at such a studio like CH.

I agree with your post on The Row, it seems to be teetering at the stage where design houses start to get a little bloated and erupt into chaos (as we are seeing happen at LVMH and Chanel). The new bling is black and blue neutrals.

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Thanks Kevin, I always appreciate your comments.

I've seen so much change in the luxury market over the course of my career, but during the last ten years the rate of change and growth is mind blowing and not sustainable. It's difficult for creativity to thrive in this environment. What is really crazy is at the same time fashion is touting sustainability. That's another story I'm working up to.

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I loved reading this. I don't enjoy Cos' association with HM, but I do admit to shopping their sales, because their quality is great and their cuts are interesting. Max Mara to me is the epitome of the quality/price sweet spot - my mother shopped a lot there, and everything she bought is still going strong either in her wardrobe or ours. I think The Row has been very successful at selling a very European/Scandinavian understated style to a US audience, but as you so eloquently point out, that style can be emulated without the price point (or the spirational prestige).

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Hi Louise, I think Cos has upped their game lately in terms of fabrics and styles and the value is great. I agree with you on Max Mara. For my executive styling clients it's the best brand out there. They consistently make chic wearable clothes you can have forever. Thanks for reading and commenting!

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The Row basically" borrows" a lot...almost copies...Jil Sander and Phoebe Philo...Look at their runway looks and you will see THE ROW

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Yes, they are not reinventing the wheel. The designers of The Row work quite anonymously, but pretty safe to assume they are inspired by the minimalist before them. I do like what they do, but I would love to see more innovation.

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This is may be my favorite of your posts, ever. You unlocked the double-paned glass door of secrets for those of us who look longingly from the outside staring inside that small window waiting for a glimpse of how and what fashion and style mean to the über few. The Row. The elite. Those in the know. Those with money. To Burn.

We're not all so privileged. But oh, to show us how and what it might feel and look like to mirror the style, beauty, and quality of the elite—that's the definition of a true fashionista, one who knows how to bridge the gap to make us all feel warm and welcome.

I love the red shoes and tights with the black dress, classic and sexy... and guess what? You showed me a way to afford and feel like an elite, even if only for a night. Thank you.

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Hi Patti,

Thank you so much! I'm going to screen shot your comment and keep it on my desk top! I appreciate all your comments, they really are an inspiration to me! Have a wonderful evening, you made mine!

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You're welcome - your work inspires me weekly. Thank you. ❤️

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Ahhh you really hit the nail on the head!! They have fantastic materials and construction, I’m not denying it! But the actual cost is far beyond that quality - the pieces I have from resale & sample sales are great but not genuinely worth their original price imo. but I love their styling for inspo! definitely excited to read Giulia’s piece on smaller handmade makers, that’s a more satisfying spend imo. Also happy to meet someone else who doesn’t like the pill shavers - I don’t want to lose the integrity of the material I paid so much for so easily!

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Yes, throw out the pill shavers, that's cashmere abuse!

Prices have gone up so fast, the resale market one positive outcome from all this.

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Even resale might be saturated at some point and it's already the case while often cheaper than the new boutique products, even resale prices aren't that cheap anymore. On another topic, when so many consumers ie. customers of exclusive luxury brands love their clothing or accessories they buy why do we see many items already discarded after one or two seasons to be sold on as "pre-loved"? Would be certainly worth an investigation too I'm my humble opinion. Thank you 🤓😍📚🔖💯

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All interesting observations! When it comes to luxury brands there are many contradictions. They will charge what the market will bear and lately that's a lot!

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Love it!!!! Always keeping it real!

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Always!

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Love the replicated looks 👌

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Thank you, it was an interesting exercise!

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I really like the way you get into this from such an informed standpoint. Would also love your preloved picks and assessment!

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Thank you so much. The pre-loved arena is something I haven't fully delved into yet but have been exploring the Real Real a lot lately and can't believe how many fantastic pieces are available. So yes, I'll be adding those picks in the future. It's a smart way to still enjoy designer pieces without going broke!! BTW loved your recent post about your business and melding it with your Substack, well done!

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Oh wow, Jolain, thank YOU! XX

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Loved this post so much!

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So glad you liked it! Thanks for reading and commenting!!

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I was JUST having this conversation with my friends today. I appreciate the effort, fabrics, tailoring etc that goes into The Row, but I just cannot justify its prices for what I’m getting. I’ve had the pleasure of physically handling some of The Row’s pieces at my previous job and I wasn’t that blown away (in comparison or other brands, for example). There are even examples of “mid-level” brands that are doing comparable work, as you’ve highlighted.

Thank you for saying it! Lol

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Hi Myris, It's great to hear from you again! That seems to be the general consensus. The prices are high and you can find similar styles, still of quality, for less.

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Lovely post. I agree that while I appreciate the Row, I don’t buy it (the price is just beyond eye-watering for the creative aesthetic). Cos has stepped up their game again in terms of price-value, I hope it continues!

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Hi Lindsay,

I agree, Cos has really stepped up their game with better fabrics and great styles. The value is incredible. Thanks for your comment!

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Phenomenal piece Jolain! Love getting a deep dive into your background and notes on design and fabric construction ♥️

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Thank you Camilla! Btw, love that photo of Jackie you posted in a polo, a true testament to timeless style.

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You’re so kind, I’m obsessed with that photo! So chic!

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Love how you recreated the looks for less! Wonderful ☺️

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So glad you liked it, and they're still super high quality. Luxury companies will charge as much as the market will bear, a bit of push back is good.

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There is no substitute for quality which thankfully is not always reflected in the pricetag.

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Hi Deborah, So true and so important to understand that. Thanks for reading and commenting!

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Totally agree! Excellent substitute choices…I vote for the DeMellier bag and a trip to Paris!

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Loved this post. I think if you understand quality fabrics and how garments are made you can find good quality clothes in unlikely places. It would be lovely to buy what we wanted without considering the price but only a very small percentage of us can do that.

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Thanks Joanna! So well put!! This is a big part of my purpose for What Looks Good.

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