Borrowed From The Boys
When I worked in design choosing colors for a collection was the first step when starting a new season. We would begin with swatches of colors and images for inspiration. Inspiration could be a painting, flowers, interiors, or anything that had an interesting mix of colors to develop our color story. Once settled, color standards were sent to fabric and yarn mills. Adjustments could be made and colors dropped but the long lead times for custom colors required that color standards be submitted months in advance.
I feel a bit out of practice now that I’m not immersed in the use of color for developing a collection. My wardrobe has also become complacent, relying mainly on black and neutrals with the odd accent color in knits. As I mentioned in previous posts, all that is about to change. I’ve been actively seeking color inspiration and found it in an unlikely place; menswear.
While looking at the Bottega Veneta Resort 2025 collection, the above looks for men stopped me in my tracks. The use of color was subtle yet impactful, natural yet unexpected. The looks conveyed refinement and nuance often missing in womenswear. I was struck by how transformative the use of color was to basic elements.
Menswear, more often than womenswear, is more grounded in function. The luxury collections for men stress the luxe component with rich materials and a sumptuous mix of texture in interesting color combinations. These are the exact elements I want in my wardrobe. Inspired by the BV look, I created the below outfit for women.
We know camel pairs beautifully with bright saturated colors, but it’s equally effective when paired with pale colors, as it is here with soft pink and a hint of pale yellow. The caramel color slides inspired the croc-textured boots in the same hue. I’ve had my eye on this double-faced wool sweater in the perfect shade of camel and should just buy it already. I love how it has a sculptural feel. Looking forward to transition it could work as an elevated sweatshirt in place of a jacket. The pale pink slip skirt, 50% off, replaced the shorts for the hard paired with soft look I love. A pale yellow scarf at the neck adds complexity to the story. Ground it all with an olive bag, which is a great color for accessories. It adds the perfect punctuation to so many color stories; a worthwhile accessory color to cultivate. For a splurge, I chose the puzzle tote from Loewe. This is my favorite tote on the market currently. For a more affordable option, try this Sézane tote in the perfect shade of olive suede.
Encouraged, I continued my exploration of color and dug deeper into menswear. The current menswear shows had little to offer. I dug deeper and came up with gold in the form of Tom Ford’s Fall 2022 Men’s Collection. It’s a sumptuous riot of color in luxurious velvets, cashmere, leather, and suede. If I could procure any one of the looks in my size, I’d be in sartorial heaven. He had to be heavily influenced by the movie producer and bon vivant, Robert Evans whose 70’s swag is legendary and still looks great today. Evans defined 1970’s California cool. He was married, for a time, to Ali McGraw, another 70’s style icon. Evans produced some of the most renowned movies of his time including Love Story, The Godfather, and Chinatown.
Below are two looks inspired by Tom Ford’s Fall ‘22 collection. This made me miss Tom’s presence on the scene. We’re about the same age and our paths crossed a couple of times. Both of our formative fashion years were steeped in a great appreciation for luxury fabrics, fit, and the expertise needed to create expensive clothes. He also brought glamour to all he did, something I see less and less of and sorely miss.
This look is the perfect foil for the winter blues; shades of off-white with rich brown accessories and a bright turquoise cashmere sweater. That says class, my friends! Like color, texture is an important element to consider when constructing an outfit. The texture of this Coach shearling jacket, currently 50% off, works well with the fine wale RL corduroy pants. The off-whites don’t have to match but blend. Dark brown accessories in a variety of textures also add interest. The croc-embossed boots are from Totême. Brown, particularly in suede is having a moment. This is a great-looking tote to own and plays beautifully off bright colors. I like the thicker width of the brown leather belt by Nili Lotan. It fills the entire width of the waistband. The bright turquoise turtleneck, on sale now, makes the look. As an homage to Robert Evans; Tom Ford aviator sunglasses.
Here we have a melange of deep khaki greens in complementary surfaces. The shiny fabric of the Mackage parka, the nap of the suede pants, and the deeper green of the cashmere cardigan add textural interest. Again, similar colors don’t have to match but blend. The deep lavender cashmere turtleneck gives the outfit the exclamation point it needs. Cordovan-colored brogues are on my wish list, they’re a shoe for life with many possibilities. These are from Prada-owned Churche’s, on sale. The Emme Parsons loafers are another good option; the sunglasses are from Vontelle.
I would be remiss not to mention Pier Paolo Piccioli’s contribution to adding exciting color combinations to menswear. Below are shots from his Fall 2021 couture show for Valentino, magnificently staged in Venice, on the water at sunset. For me, this was a transformative fashion moment. The women’s collection was true couture, the highest expression of fashion. He peppered the show with men’s looks, sublime in their own right. Together it was a masterclass in color theory and a feast for the eyes. You can view the show here.
Thank you for reading, I hope you’re inspired to add color to your wardrobe as I am, I know I'm giving it a lot of airtime. I strongly feel the time is right to embrace color. The world is not black and white or shades of grey. Bring on the color! I know I could use it in my life right now. Comments are encouraged, I would love to hear your thoughts on the subject.
xxx Jolain
Did you see the piece on Paul Smith on CBS Sunday Morning today? It was fun to get a glimpse into his sources of inspiration. And his use of color seems right in line with your theme!
Ahhh yes Tom Ford and Robert Evans…forever on the sexy list!