Cracking the Functional Wardrobe Code

6 Pieces = 8 + Outfits From Day To Evening

We’ve all had this feeling; staring into a jammed packed closet and feeling as though you have nothing to wear. Colors, fabrics, proportions and design amongst the disparate pieces in everyone’s closets are often at odds. Sure there are outfits to be had, but like cliques in high school many pieces just don’t mix. Don’t feel bad, this is normal and adds to variety, though it can also add to dysfunction if it falls too heavy on the no-mix side.

My solution is to have a core wardrobe that consists of six seasonal pieces that all work together. Travel with these six pieces and you’ll have everything you need from casual comfort to evening looks. I’ve constructed eight outfits for different scenarios without even exhausting all the possibilities. There are no wrong answers here. I’ve cracked the elusive code and that's what I want to share with you today.

We start with a great outerwear piece. I chose a shearling jacket in black. It’s roomy enough to fit over the three tops, even when layered together. The code cracked here is proportion; we need a big enough jacket to work easily over the tops chosen. To balance the volume on top, the two bottoms are closer to the body. The color is black so it works over all the other pieces and the texture of the leather and shearling adds depth and interest.

For the three tops we start with a fine gauge merino turtleneck in bright green. I love this turtle and have recommended it before. The lightness of it makes it the perfect layering piece. Worn alone it’s a bit sheer. You can either wear a nude bra with it or have a little fun, as our girl Carrie Bradshaw would, and wear a lacy black bra underneath. 

Next is a silk charmeuse shirt in navy blue. It can be worn over the turtle for a more sporty take. Unbutton it low with the lacy black bra and multiple gold necklaces for evening. The last top is an oversized cardigan in navy. This takes the place of a jacket and can layer over the other two tops or be worn alone for a sexier take.

The codes cracked here are the three tops must work over both bottoms and all work together. The tops can be layered together in any combination as well as work alone. To make this work color and fabric are key. Notice there is no redundancy here. The turtle is very fine, the cardigan chunky and soft and the silk shirt shiny and fluid. The bright green goes well with the navy of the other tops. The different materials of the cardigan and the shirt make it possible for the two navies to blend in a tonal way. If they were similar fabrics you would want them to match.

For the two bottoms we have slim, fluid pants in a fine worsted wool. You may recognize these from an earlier post. I stand by these pants; they’ve cracked the code of working over heels or flats which is key for our purposes, and strike the perfect balance of appearing full without being big. Next is a long slim skirt in double-faced wool. It’s sold as a maxi, though I would hem it to 5” above the ankle. The soft wooliness of the skirt plays nicely off  the tops and the jacket. The important concept to grasp here is all the fabrics and colors work well together. The different weights and textures add to the overall harmony of the outfits. The tonality of the black, navy and gray makes it simple to mix all the pieces and not be limited. The bright green of the turtleneck adds a shock of color. A last word on color; don’t let anyone tell you black and navy can’t be worn together. They are the best of friends!

No outfit stands alone. The shoe is the foundation upon which the outfit is built.  Here, I have a ballet flat and a boot both from A. Emory. They’re comfortable for day and can work into evening. I bought the A. Emory sandals I recommended in the summer and was thrilled with the quality, fit and style. 

Next, a kitten heel to elevate the pieces when a more polished appearance is desired, or for evening. All the shoes are in black and every shoe goes with both bottoms. This is key, particularly for travel.

These are the accessories that tie the six pieces together and add to the versatility as a whole. We all have our constant accessories and those go without saying, mine are my watch and rings. I love bold, chunky gold necklaces worn in multiples as the muse from my last post, Francesca Ruffini, demonstrates. For you, it may be something different. The code to crack here is what jewelry will elevate the pieces to bring a whole greater than the sum of its parts. For example; multiple gold chains worn with the silk shirt or cardigan, open at the neck and décolleté, gives the outfit a more sexy, evening vibe. Embrace the low necklines with a pretty black lace bra. Don’t worry if it peeks out, this is no longer taboo. The black bra loosens up the masculine pieces and gives you a sexy edge.  

Hose is making a comeback this fall. A peek of fishnets worn with the skirt and kitten heels makes it feel a bit more dressed up. I would also try it with the boots and skirt for fun. I love the thigh highs here.  I’ll have to try them out and let you know if they actually stay up. 

 A cashmere throw is a joy to have and wear. It can be that extra layer needed when it’s chilly, or add a layer of drama and volume to an outfit. The melange gray adds another nuance of color that blends seamlessly with the existing pieces.

For the outfits, I imagined a one-week work and pleasure trip to Paris.  In years past, I attended the Premièr Vision fabric show twice a year and used that as a model. Long days on your feet were rewarded with great dinners, nights out and a free day or two. 

The fishnet hose would be fun here.

I would add one long, gold necklace to the above fit!

For practicality, I would pack a second fine gauge turtleneck in a different color for variety. Add a dark wash jean and a striped tee and you could stay another week!

Just remember, it’s the principles that are important and how to apply them to your own circumstances. The pieces are suggestions to illustrate the principles. Start in your own closet. You may already have key pieces from which to build. The main point is to think about proportions, mix of materials and colors for all pieces and accessories to work together seamlessly and solve the age old problem; I have nothing to wear! 

I hope this has been helpful. I’d love to hear what you think! If you’re interested in a remote, or in person styling session (if you live in NYC) to get you started, or if you have questions, please message me.

xxx Jolain