Sometimes it only takes one new item of clothing to unlock a multitude of outfits with pieces you already have. The trick is knowing exactly what that item is and getting it, pronto. You know by now I’m not here to advocate buying into every trend. My modus operandi is to help you build out your wardrobe over time with quality, timeless pieces. With the right addition you can style your old things in new ways, breathing life into your whole wardrobe. The other great advantage of this approach is your wardrobe becomes more personal and reflects you. You won’t see yourself coming and going.
The item I added is deceptively simple and basic; a black cashmere turtleneck. What makes it special are the proportions of it; that’s what enables it to unlock new outfits that reflect the moment. I already own three fine gauge wool fitted black turtlenecks, one relaxed black cashmere turtleneck and one heavy weight black, long mock-turtleneck. So why on earth did I need yet another black turtleneck? Because the proportions and weight of it do something all the others cannot. It all comes down to proportions. In styling this is one of the most important concepts to understand. There are no hard, fast rules to learn because proportions change overtime, making it a moving target. It is however the x factor that makes an outfit look en pointe. Also there is not only one dominant proportion at any given time but many and all are evolving. Sounds confusing, I know but with my ten looks photographed on moi I’ll walk you through it. But first let’s establish what makes this black turtleneck so special.
The sweater is from Organic John Patrick, the best kept secret in the very crowded cashmere field. The collection was established in 2004 and was way ahead of the curve for prioritizing environmental impact, organic materials and fair labor practices. They fly under the radar, selling mainly through their own website, and do it their way, not allowing returns, but will do store credit. They make limited batches that often sell out. The good news is they continually run their most popular styles, changing up the colors. I bought their wide cashmere crewneck five years ago and it is still in the collection. It has held up great despite me practically living in it, a testament to their quality. They also understand the importance weight and proportion play in making the perfect cashmere sweater. Something many cashmere companies do not. Last, their prices are amazing for the quality. My sweater and many more are currently on sale. I can't even be mad that I missed the sale by a couple of weeks because I already feel I can’t live without it and know I’ll get more than my money's worth.
FYI, I’m pushing way out of my comfort zone photographing ten outfits on myself! Some of my wonderful paid subscribers requested this and it is the best way to illustrate what I’m talking about. I hope you like it and forgive the crude selfie way of doing this. If you, as paid subscribers, like this and would like to see more I’ll try to up my photography game. Message me or let me know in comments.
In the photographs above you can see that the new sweater is much wider than a normal fit turtleneck. The weight is also heavier giving it a bit more heft but not so heavy that it’s too hot for indoors.
Outfit 1. Here we have a casual everyday outfit. Skinny jeans are in timeout, so here I’ve paired it with wide leg off-white jeans and boots. No big deal, but a solid outfit that fits into my Just Add White narrative. I added the scarf just to zhuzh it up a little. The boots have a 2” heel for a little height to balance the big over big silhouette. I’ve given you a front view and side view as a reminder to always scrutinize an outfit from all angles, including back view. I just haven’t figured out how to take a back selfie.
Outfit 2. I love an easy going evening look like this, elegant but comfortable. Here I paired the sweater with (ancient) silk crepe pants by Rochas and black Manolo stilettos. The sable snood is vintage from Eric Gaskins’s collection. It breaks up the black and adds drama. I love the drama! Red earrings give a little color.
Outfit 3. Here’s a versatile look that could go from meetings to dinner. The silk twill pants are from For Restless Sleepers, a brand I’ve written about and love. Though expensive, deals can be found online or on their website. Check them out, the pants are an essential for me. I added Celine slingbacks from two years ago, some gold jewelry and bam, done.
Outfit 4. Now it starts to get interesting with the easy outfits out of the way. Even a year ago I probably wouldn’t have paired this voluminous Prada skirt with an oversized sweater. I wore it mainly with cotton shirts or tight sweaters tucked in but it felt a bit off, too uptight. With the big sweater tucked loosely in front only it feels much more relaxed. Our collective eyes have adjusted to much bigger proportions. To give the fit some air I pushed up the sleeves. Styling trick; to keep sleeves pushed up put skinny hair ties around the top of the cuff rib then push up the sleeves. The loafers are Tods from last year.
Outfit 5. Nothing complicated here. The sweater proportions work perfectly over these recently rediscovered Levis I’ve had forever. The velvet slippers are from Birdies which are a great alternative to sneakers. The insides are padded and they have rubber soles. I should have included them in my Breaking With Sneakers Post. I may have to get the calf hair leopard version.
Outfit 6. I bought these Kobi Halperin pants last year. I liked the fit and color, ahead of the burgundy party. The boots are ancient Gianvito Rossi, again love the color and proving the point that sticking with classic shapes will build your wardrobe for the long haul. Just add the black cashmere sweater and voila, a fantastic color combination and versatile outfit. To dress it up I added a Chanel pendant (had forever) and new big earrings I bought vintage (my new obsession vintage 60s and 70s chandelier earrings).
Outfit 7. Now we’re digging deep and getting to the wardrobe archives. The skirt and coat are from my glory days of clothing allowances at Carolina Herrera. I haven’t worn them in years but they are so beautiful, made in Italy of cashmere and wool double-face, that I didn’t have the heart to part with them. Now they have a new friend in the black sweater that sheds the too ladylike feel I would get when wearing it with a fitted top. It relaxes the whole vibe. I had to play with the sweater a bit, eventually coming up with a loose tuck all around creating a blouson effect. I pushed up the sleeves to match the bottom of the sweater. I love how the black on top and bottom sandwich the pinkish-beige. Note the semi-sheer hose, haven’t gone there in ages but feeling strongly for them now. The right photo is me having my Kim Novak moment in Vertigo!
Outfit 8. Interesting things happen when you force yourself to come up with ten outfits around one piece. This embroidered skirt is an ancient treasure from my Oscar de la Renta clothing allowance days (god I miss that). It has been in hibernation for years. I always paired this with cropped, fitted cashmere sweaters in autumnal hues from the same collection, but it felt too much of another time in my life. With this oversized sweater in black it has a whole new feel. The ground of the skirt is black and brown marled. I never thought of pairing it with black before. Think I have my Thanksgiving fit!
Outfit 9. This is the biggest surprise of the session! Before divorce, before children, before marriage, there was Pucci. I had a thing for Pucci and collected it, not just to have, but to wear. This is a silk twill circle skirt which somehow they were able to permanently pleat. I was so excited by the last outfit find that I continued to dig deep. This I was holding onto strictly for nostalgia, but hell it’s back in rotation now. I never paired it with a big top but it works! And again sandwiched by black pulls the look together.
Outfit 10. Last we have my bitch-be-stomping-around-New York outfit. The skirt is a nothing Zara piece I bought at least 8 years ago. It’s a survivor and has made it through multiple clothing culls. Again the right top makes all the difference. The heavy soled Roger Vivier boots are a treasure acquired two years ago. I could climb Everest in these, they are so comfortable and solid. Ladies, don’t be afraid to buy a trendy shoe now and again, it can instantly update an outfit. These were a bit out of my comfort zone but I’ve lived in them the past two winters so the risk paid off. The striped scarf adds a little zing to the otherwise somber tones.
I hope this inspires you to assess your own wardrobe and look for the key piece that can unlock outfits for you. Two things worth noting: the black makes it easy to meld with many pieces. Colors limit what it goes with so think in terms of neutrals for this. And cashmere has a look and feel of luxury so it can easily go from day to evening, something you couldn’t do with a cotton or, god forbid, acrylic sweater. Also it feels so good and quality cashmere can last a lifetime.
Thank you all for reading. Your comments mean everything to me, please keep them coming and share this site with a friend who may enjoy it. Why not?
xxx Jolain
I always get so excited when I see you have posted another substack, because I know I am about to learn about another incredible brand to obsess over. I had never heard of Organic John Patrick and now I am lusting over all of their knitwear, including the wide turtleneck in black you highlighted here and the Nikki cardigan in fern. However, both are already sold out in my size. What is your opinion on sizing up in a style like this? Do you think it would be too much, since it is already a boxy and oversized cut? I am 5’6’’, so neither short nor tall.
From your outfits, #2, 6, 8, and 9 are my favorites, though honestly I could see myself wearing every one. Thank you for going out of your comfort zone to show us these great styling choices! They illustrated so perfectly your points around how to style this sweater and I am going to be using a couple of them as templates. I might be recreating #6 from head to toe sometime in the near future. And a vintage sable is on my watch list now, who would have thought it could look so modern!
Hello from Santa Cruz, CA. Recently found your substack and love it. Silly question, the Vivier boots you wearing #10- how is sizing? I must have them and found some on eBay and TRR but unsure . Any insight will be greatly appreciated. Happy New Year, look forward to your posts and playing with my “collection” again.